Visit Ísafjörður in Iceland’s Westfjords: the complete guide

The Westfjords is certainly the most remote region of Iceland. In winter, access is difficult, roads are often closed and flights are canceled due to strong winds.
Deep in the Westfjords, just 300 km from Greenland, the Skutulsfjörður fjord is home to an unsuspected town: Ísafjörður!
Despite its polar climate and isolation, Ísafjörður has developed like no other town in the region. A hospital, schools, and even a university have been built, attracting young people worldwide.
We’ve fallen in love with the Westfjords and are lucky enough to spend a lot of time living and working in this part of Iceland. So we’ve decided to devote a complete guide to sharing our top tips for people wanting to visit Isafjordur.

Visit Isafjordur: Introduction to the town

Ísafjörður is the largest town in Iceland’s Westfjords. With its 2,700 inhabitants, it is the capital of the Vestfirðir region. Although the fjord has been inhabited since the 9th century, the town officially became a trading post in the 16th century. Since then, Ísafjörður has grown steadily, thanks in particular to the fishing industry.

In recent years, tourism has also taken off. Tourists arrive in large numbers in summer to visit Isafjordur, both by road, via the Reykjavik-Ísafjörður flight, and by cruise ship, which has become the town’s biggest tourist source.

Ísafjörður is surrounded by 700m-high mountains. Numerous hiking trails, cycle paths, kayaking opportunities, and the famous ski resort make it a destination of choice for lovers of sport and outdoor activities.

History of Ísafjörður

Ísafjörður means Iced fjord. The town takes its name from its harsh, cold winter climate and partly frozen fjord, but also from the Icebergs that once drifted into the fjord from the north.

The history of Ísafjörður is made up of the men and women who settled in this hostile region in search of an Eldorado called fish! This history is therefore closely linked to fishing, in its boom and bust periods.

The first inhabitants of Ísafjörður

Helgi Magri Hrólfsson was the first to settle in the Skutulsfjörður fjord, where Ísafjörður is located today. Son of Hrólfs í Gnúpufelli, Helgi Hrólfsson grew up in Norway before moving to Eyjafjörður in northern Iceland, where his father lived. Having received a poor reception, he decided to return to Norway. But on the way back, his boat was pushed back as far as the Súgandafjörður fjord, now home to the village of Suðureyri. He then discovered the fjord of Skutulsfjörður and decided to settle there.

Helgi Magri Hrólfsson is therefore the first official inhabitant of Ísafjörður!

Fishing

In 1786, Ísafjörður was officially declared a city by the Danish crown. From then on, and with the success of the shrimp industry, fishing in Ísafjörður grew to become one of Iceland’s most important fishing ports. The region has also attracted whalers, mainly Norwegian, for over 4 centuries.

In recent times, from the 1980s onwards, fishing in Ísafjörður, and Iceland in general, has been in decline. On the one hand, declining fish stocks due to overfishing have greatly penalized the industry. On the other hand, the introduction of restrictions (fishing quotas) by the Icelandic government led to a reduction in the number of fishing vessels and the disappearance of large trawlers. During this period, the city experienced a rural exodus, notably to Reykjavik, where job opportunities were more plentiful.

Today, the fishing industry in Ísafjörður is stable and is even enjoying a new boom thanks to tourism. In summer, you’ll need to book your place to enjoy fresh fish caught the same day, or visit one of the many fish factories in the region.

Tourism in Isafjordur

As you can see, tourism has given Isafjordur and its inhabitants a new lease of life. From May to September, tens of thousands of people visit the town every year.

First, there are the tourists who travel around Iceland and venture as far as the Westfjords. Then there are the summer and winter visitors who come to enjoy the region’s magnificent scenery and outdoor sports. Finally, cruise ships and sailing boats enter the port of Ísafjörður every day. Cruisers usually spend a day visiting the town before continuing to Reykjavik or Akureyri. Sailboats usually stay for several days, as Ísafjörður is the closest port to Greenland, where sailboats go.

Finally, on some days, there are as many as 8,000 people who visit Isafjordur, which has a population of just 2,700. For some years now, tourism has been Iceland’s leading economic sector, relegating fishing and the aluminum industry to second and third place.

Cruise ships

Described by some as the town’s black spot, and by others as an undreamed-of opportunity, cruise ship activity in Ísafjörður has become one of the town’s economic lungs. In summer, several thousand people disembark in the town every day. Some of these tourists simply visit the town. Others book one of the many tours offered by travel agencies. The most popular tour is a visit to Dynjandi waterfall.

Cruise ships usually arrive in Ísafjörður early in the morning from Akureyri, Reykjavik, or Greenland. They disembark their passengers for sightseeing before setting off again at the end of the day for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Akureyri, or Reykjavik.

Today, it’s clear that many of the city’s businesses are completely dependent on cruise ships in Isafjordur. Some businesses have even adapted by operating only in summer. These workers live in Ísafjörður during the tourist season, and head south or to Europe for the winter.

Finally, cruise ship activity in Ísafjörður has created so many jobs that a large number of seasonal workers come from Europe and America every summer to work in tourism.

Visit Isafjordur: How do I get there?

Driving to Ísafjörður

It’s possible to drive to Isafjordur from Reykjavik, but it’s a long way! It takes around 7 hours to reach the capital of the Westfjords. Route no. 1 from Reykjavik to Holmavik is fairly quiet, before crossing a high plateau and following the northern Westfjords to Ísafjörður via routes 68 and 61. Once in Holmavik, we recommend you fill up with fuel. After Holmavik, the first village with a filling station is Súðavík, over 200km away.

Another road leads to Ísafjörður via the southern Westfjords. But this one is often inaccessible in winter, and as a general rule, we don’t recommend venturing down it, as the road is so bad.
On the other hand, if you want to visit the Westfjords and have the time, then this route allows you to do the whole tour, arriving from the south and leaving from the north. It takes you over several passes with magnificent views over the fjords. Above all, many hot springs are accessible via this route. These are little-used springs where you can often bathe alone.

Visit Isafjordur : Flights Reykjavik – Ísafjörður

Icelandair operates two daily flights to and from Ísafjörður. From Reykjavik domestic airport, you can reach Ísafjörður in 45 minutes.

Please note, however, that flights from Reykjavik to Ísafjörður are not recommended for people with a phobia of airplanes. The aircraft used are small and noisy, and the arrival at Ísafjörður is quite spectacular given the narrowness of the fjord and the short runway.

Ísafjörður airport is 4km from the town center. It’s the first building on the right as you arrive. A shuttle bus is available at each landing to take passengers into town for a fare of 1000 Kr (about €7).

What’s more, Reykjavik-Ísafjörður flight fares have risen in recent years, but this is still the cheapest and fastest option for a single passenger.

Finally, given the weather conditions, flights are often canceled. If you decide to fly and visit Isafjordur, we advise you to have a plan B.

How to get to Ísafjörður by bus

There is a bus service from Reykjavik to Isafjordur but be warned: on the one hand, the journey is adventurous, with many changes, and on the other, departure days and times are subject to change.

To reach Ísafjörður from Reykjavik by bus, first take bus 57 to Borgarnes, its terminus. The journey takes around 1h30. 5 minutes after your arrival, bus 59 departs Borgarnes for Holmavik. The journey time is 2 hours 10 minutes. Finally, 20 minutes after you arrive in Holmavik, bus 61 departs for Ísafjörður, allowing you to complete the last leg in 3 hours.
You’ll need to plan ahead, as public transport is rarely punctual, and it’s easy to miss your bus…
We warned you: it’s an adventure!

Visit Isafjordur by Carpooling

Finally, the last option for making the Reykjavík-Ísafjörður journey is carpooling. Unfortunately, there are no car-sharing websites in Iceland. Only the Facebook group Samferða Ísafjörður allows you to post messages and respond to proposals.

But before you look for a carpool in Iceland, there’s one important thing you should know: Icelanders never plan ahead! They hardly ever post car-sharing advertisements the day before or even the day of. This last-minute culture is since Iceland’s climate is so unpredictable that it’s hard to plan. Icelanders therefore prefer to improvise at the last minute, depending on the weather.

Accommodation in Isafjordur

Visit Isafjordur : Hotels

If you plan to stay in a hotel when you visit Isafjordur, the town’s two main hotel complexes are Hótel Edda and Hótel Ísafjörður. The first one is a three-star hotel. This block of gray buildings, off-center from the city center, doesn’t necessarily make you want to stay there, and the feedback isn’t very good.
As for Hótel Ísafjörður, it consists of several establishments of varying standards located in the city center. The main establishment is the Hotel Torg. It’s located right in town, next to the police station. The same building houses the Logn restaurant and bar, which doubles as the hotel reception.

Furthermore, for smaller budgets, Hótel Ísafjörður also owns Ísafjörður hostel, a hostel with dormitories at around 7700 Kr a night (€50). The building is a small yellow wooden house, close to Ísafjörður’s main shops.

Visit Isafjordur : Guesthouses

If you’re looking for a budget guesthouse in Ísafjörður, you might as well say it’s mission impossible. Firstly because the choice is very limited, and secondly because the prices are very high. There’s no room for two people for less than €100. If you have a car, we recommend that you head for the surrounding villages such as Flateyri, Suðureyri, Bolungarvík or Súðavík.

We also advise you to book your accommodation in Ísafjörður well in advance. Finding last-minute accommodation in summer is virtually impossible.

Isafjordur camping

There’s only one campsite in Ísafjörður, and it’s just outside town, close to the Bunárfoss waterfall. The campsite offers all amenities: showers, toilets, a kitchen, wifi and even laundry facilities.

Ísafjörður campsite costs 2450 Kr per night (around €16) per person. If you want to use electricity to recharge your devices, then you’ll need to add a supplement of 1300 Kr (around €8).
These prices are rather high compared with other Icelandic campsites, but the comfort is also superior.

Please note, however, that if you don’t have a car, it’s a 4 km drive from Ísafjörður campsite to the town center.

Visit Isafjordur: Natural attractions

The Westfjords is Iceland’s wildest region. Nature is untouched and unspoiled, and the population density is very low. It’s the perfect playground for adventurers who want to explore breathtaking natural sights. That’s why we’ve compiled a list of the natural attractions near Isafjordur we’ve visited.

Dynjandi waterfalls

Dynjandi is the largest and most popular waterfall in Iceland’s Westfjords. Nicknamed the bride’s veil, this 99m-high waterfall is part of a group of eight waterfalls that form the Fjallfoss (mountain waterfalls).

Dynjandi means stunning! And we can assure you that the waterfall is at once sublime, imposing, and dizzying – it makes you feel so small!

In summer, you can take a dip at the foot of Dynjandi waterfall. If you’re not afraid of cold water, the experience is well worth the detour!

Finally, if you visit Dynjandi, we recommend you continue a little further along Route 60, to Lake Afrettarvatn. The valley is magnificent and the river is punctuated by small waterfalls and moss-covered rocks.

Visit Isafjordur and Hornstrandir nature reserve

We’ve already devoted a complete guide to Hornstrandir nature reserve in Iceland, where you’ll find all the information you need.
This immense peninsula is undoubtedly the main attraction of the Westfjords. If you visit Isafjordur, then the reserve is only accessible by boat. The crossing takes between 1 and 2 hours. It’s also worth noting that Iceland’s climate is highly capricious. Only experienced hikers visit the reserve.

We work in the nature reserve, so if you’re looking for guides for a photo tour or hike in Hornstrandir, the contact form is for you 🙂

The quickest way to get to Hornstrandir is to take a ferry to the ancient village of Hesteyri. From here, you can hike north to Hornvik Bay, which is known to be home to the highest density of arctic foxes in the world.

Visiting Hornstrandir is a wonderful experience. Nature is wild and unspoiled. You can observe millions of seabirds, whales, orcas, and arctic foxes. If you’re a wildlife lover planning to visit Iceland, then you can’t miss Hornstrandir Nature Reserve!

Vigur Island

With its colony of 100 000 puffins, 7000 common eiders, and, even rarer, 1000 black guillemots, Vigur Island is a seabird sanctuary! The island was once inhabited by a single family and boasts some of the oldest buildings in Iceland. For example, you can visit a windmill built in 1840 to grind wheat imported from Denmark.

A ferry link takes you to the island, where you can spend a few hours. It’s the ideal place for birdwatchers and wildlife photographers.

Bunárfoss waterfall in Ísafjörður

Bunárfoss is a little paradise near Ísafjörður. Numerous waterfalls, a small bridge facing the mountain, a patch of grass ideal for picnics, and the town’s most beautiful lupine field – all the ingredients are there for a little stroll at the bottom of the fjords and a picnic by the Buná river.

Bunárfoss is also close to the Tunguskógur forest. This is an important detail, given the scarcity of trees in the Westfjords. Paths lead through the forest, and several clearings have been set aside for picnics. You can also pick berries and mushrooms here. We recommend this short walk if you visit Isafjordur.

Visit Isafjordur : Shopping

Have a drink in Isafjordur

When you arrive in a place as remote as Ísafjörður, it’s not easy to find the right places to have a drink and meet people. The best place to have a drink in Ísafjörður is undoubtedly Dokkan Brewery, the town’s only craft brewery. Here, you can sample the many beers brewed on-site, and meet locals and tourists alike.

There’s something for everyone at Dokkan Brewery: lagers, red ales, IPAs, a stout (recommended for dark beer lovers), and even a rhubarb-flavored beer (rhubarb is very popular in Iceland, being one of the few edible plants that grow everywhere).

The brewery also offers many snacks, including French fries, onion fritters, chicken wings, and olives. The brasserie is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., but the kitchen closes at 9 p.m., so plan ahead and order before closing to extend the evening.
What’s more, numerous events are organized here, often weekly (quiz nights, karaoke, etc.), and locals from all over the surrounding fjords regularly get together to share a convivial moment!
If you prefer a quieter atmosphere while you visit Isafjordur, you can also enjoy a drink at Húsið restaurant, Edinborg Bístró, or one of Ísafjörður’s hotel bars.

Edinborg Bístró is also the venue for some of the city’s nightlife events. Pride nights are a regular feature, as are electro nights with DJ sets. What’s more, the bistro is home to one of the city’s free public toilets (good to know!).

Restaurants in Isafjordur

There’s no shortage of restaurants in Ísafjörður, with something for everyone! But two restaurants stand out from the rest. They’re the most popular with Icelanders, which is generally a sign of quality.

Tjöruhúsið fish restaurant

The first is Tjöruhúsið fish restaurant, the town’s most famous. This restaurant is located in a house built in 1781, part of Iceland’s oldest group of houses.
Tjöruhúsið serves mainly fish caught the same day, with many dishes available on a self-service basis. In fact, there is no à la carte menu. The most common fish available are Atlantic wolffish, cod, halibut and langoustine.
The restaurant also offers langoustine soup with tomato and traditional Icelandic fish stew.

Húsið restaurant

Ísafjörður’s other popular restaurant is Húsið. It’s less traditional but still offers dishes based on fish or mutton (the most popular meat in Iceland). Húsið is more “youthful” than the others, offering excellent pizzas and burgers.
Finally, Húsið in Ísafjörður is vegan-friendly. If you don’t eat meat and/or dairy products, you’ll have no trouble finding alternatives.

There are other restaurants in Ísafjörður, such as Edinborg Bistro or the restaurants of the town’s hotels. But the latter are rather classic and mainly frequented by tourists.

Finally, it’s impossible to talk about Ísafjörður without mentioning the Hamraborg pizzeria. This place is much more than a pizzeria, as it also offers burgers (meat or vegetarian), sandwiches, and other quick meals.
For dessert, you can’t go past Hamraborg’s Italian-style ice cream and its many toppings. The ice cream and sweets area (which is outrageous for the size of the establishment) is a paradise for all Ísafjörður’s children!
There’s also a “bazaar” area where you can find souvenirs, phone chargers, children’s toys, DIY tools, and even musical instruments. Stay tuned for discounted pizza evenings!

Ísafjörður’s supermarkets

When you visit Isafjordur, shopping in Iceland’s Westfjords can be a real obstacle course, as the choice is so limited. In most villages, there’s only a small grocery store or nothing at all! But Ísafjörður is the largest town in the Westfjords, and there are two supermarkets where you can shop:

• Bonus supermarket: Certainly Iceland’s most popular supermarket. You’ll find them all over the island. Bonus is also the supermarket with the lowest prices. Ísafjörður supermarket is located at the entrance to the town, on the left as you arrive.

• Nettó supermarket: Less affordable than Bonus, Nettó can nevertheless offer a better choice of certain products. The Nettó supermarket in Ísafjörður also sells Icelandic wool, for those who knit! It’s right in the center of town, so it’s within easy walking distance, unlike the bonus store, which is 3km from downtown.

If you’re in a bind outside supermarket opening hours, the Hamraborg pizzeria and the N1 petrol station, both located in the town center, can help out with necessities.

Visit Isafjordur: The fishing industry

Fish has always been a fallback option in the Westfjords. When the economy takes a turn for the worse, when job prospects dwindle, locals know they always have the option of the ocean. This is the story of Ísafjörður, which became the town it is today thanks to fishing.
The main fish caught in Ísafjörður are cod (the most important species), capelin, common mackerel, saithe, haddock, blue whiting, and Greenland halibut.

Aquaculture has also expanded over the past 20 years. Several farms have been set up in the Ísafjarðardjúp fjord to raise Atlantic salmon and trout (notably rainbow trout and Arctic char).

If you visit Isafjordur, the best place to buy fish in the town is the Fiskbúð Sjávarfangs store right next to the harbour.

The fishing industry is still dominant in the Westfjords. Tourism has grown impressively over the last 20 years, but the sector remains seasonal, unlike the rest of Iceland, where visitors arrive all year round.

But how can you talk about fishing in Iceland without mentioning the cod war?
In 1952, Iceland’s fishing zone was only 3 miles long (about 4.8km). Successive Icelandic governments then began a series of extensions: first 12 miles in 1959, then 50 miles in 1972 and finally 200 miles in 1975. This extension of the Icelandic fishing zone turned into an open and sometimes violent conflict between Icelandic and British fishing boats. Great Britain even dispatched the Royal Navy to protect its fishermen.
The conflict ended in 1976 when Great Britain finally recognized Icelandic waters.

Visit Isafjordur: Fishing-related production in the area

There’s no denying it, when it comes to fishing, Icelanders are creative. In addition to direct sales of fish, many companies in and around Ísafjörður have innovated in the fishing industry. Among the by-products linked to fishing and the ocean we can cite:

• Fish skin: In medicine, fish skin is used to accelerate healing, particularly in cases of severe burns. The Ísafjörður company Kerecis was a pioneer in this field and now markets products for the regeneration of human tissue.

• Dried fish (harðfiskur): one of the most widely consumed fish products in Iceland, but also exported, dried fish is produced in the Westfjords. It can be found in all supermarkets, including Bónus and Nettó in Ísafjörður, or the town’s fish store (Fiskbúð Sjávarfangs).

• Sea salt production: Iceland produces sustainable sea salt using geothermal energy to evaporate the water. This technique has been in use for 200 years. Saltverk continues to produce this artisanal salt in the Westfjords at Reykjanes.

• Seaweed production: Iceland’s Westfjords use seaweed to create some amazing products. The most important uses are the production of fertilizers for agriculture, the production of animal feed and the production of food supplements. Products are widely exported, notably to France, Great Britain, and Saudi Arabia.

• Dietary supplements: The famous cod liver oil, religiously consumed by all locals, needs no introduction! You’ll find it in syrup for the bravest among you, or in capsules.
  Then there’s marine collagen. Derived from the skin of fish (notably salmon) caught by Icelandic companies, collagen is marketed in powder, capsules, or incorporated into various cosmetic products and caffeinated beverages (notably the Icelandic brand Collab, which distributes caffeinated sodas much appreciated throughout the country).

Animals of Ísafjörður

Iceland is one of the best places for wildlife watching. Nature here is unspoiled and some of the Arctic’s most iconic animals are abundant. We spent a lot of time observing and photographing wildlife around Ísafjörður. When you visit Isafjordur, sometimes you just have to wander around the town, especially along the beach, to see animals.

Birdwatching around Ísafjörður

The Westfjords are a bird-watching paradise. If you’re a birdwatcher or just enjoy watching animals, you should know that millions of seabirds and land birds breed in Iceland every summer. The list of species is very long, but the most popular around Ísafjörður are puffins, razorbills, arctic terns, golden plovers, common eiders, and harlequin ducks.

Seabirds nest on the many cliffs of the Westfjords, but can also be found on small islands, sheltered from arctic foxes.
Inland, it’s the tundra. Virtually uninhabited in winter, it teems with life in summer. You’ll come across greylag geese and various species of ducks.

If you visit Isafjordur, one of the best birdwatching spots in the Westfjords is the Látrabjarg cliffs in the south. You can rent a car in Ísafjörður and get there in around 3 hours. These cliffs are the best place to see shearwaters and razorbills.

Hornstrandir’s Arctic Foxes

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is an arctic fox paradise. The area is known for having the highest density of Arctic foxes in the world, at least in the Arctic world.

This small canid, a cousin of the red fox, arrived on the island during the last ice age and remained after the ice melted. It is Iceland’s only endemic mammal. In other words, it has no predators and is spoilt for choice in terms of prey (seabirds, stranded marine animals, etc.).

We offer Arctic fox photo tours in Hornstrandir. These 8-day expeditions take us into the heart of Hornstrandir’s remote territories to observe and photograph arctic fox adults and cubs in June and July. If you’d like to talk about it, please drop us a line 🙂

Whale watching at Ísafjörður

Humpback whales, minke whales, and orcas are very common in the Ísafjörður. From experience, we’d say that the easiest whales to spot are the humpbacks. Firstly, because they are present all summer and into autumn between Ísafjörður and Grunnavik. Secondly, unlike minke whales, they are not shy and do not avoid boats.

For whale watching in Ísafjörður, you have two options. The first is to take the ferry to Hornstrandir, ideally to Hesteyri, and open your eyes wide. The second is to use the services of whale-watching companies. This last solution is safer and allows you to observe the whales for a few dozen minutes.

Last but not least, we’ve also seen whales in the Westfjords from the road. If you’re making the journey from Reykjavik by road to visit Isafjordur, keep your eyes peeled – it’s not uncommon to see them, especially in the fjord of Súðavík.

Seal watching at Ísafjörður

There are no seal-watching spots in Ísafjörður, at least not near the town. The best-known spot is the Hvitanes peninsula, 45 minutes south of Ísafjörður. Signs even indicate the presence of seals, and there’s a car park for safe stopping.

We recommend that you go to Hvitanes at low tide to increase your chances of spotting seals. You can check the tide forecast for Ísafjörður on the Tide Forecast website.

The cats of Ísafjörður

Ísafjörður is the city of cats! Felines are everywhere in the streets, and are often very cuddly. If you’re a fan of cute, fluffy fur balls, get ready to snap at every corner.

Ísafjörður’s cats aren’t strays – they have homes. But they are often allowed out for their daily strolls, much to the delight of tourists.

Visit Isafjordur: the other villages in the area

Ísafjörður is the capital of the Westfjords, but many small fishing villages were built around it. Today, much of the population of the surrounding villages works in Ísafjörður. This is also where the villagers do their shopping, as the town is home to the only two supermarkets in the Westfjords.

Given the proximity of all these villages, when you visit Isafjordur you’ll have the opportunity to take a tour of the region.

Bolungarvík

The village of Bolungarvík lies just 13km north of Isafjordur. It is one of Iceland’s oldest villages and fishing settlements, inhabited since the year 940. Today, the village has a population of around 900, with a wide diversity of nationalities.

One might ask why humans chose to settle in Bolungarvík, given its poor geographical situation: a bay (not a fjord) exposed to northerly winds and dominated by a 600 m-high mountain, with avalanche problems. The answer is simple: proximity to fishing grounds! Icelanders have chosen to live in these conditions to stay close to their source of food and income.

The village of Bolungarvík is famous for its festival, which takes place every year on the first weekend in July. Plays, musicians, and children’s games are staged in the market square, attracting more visitors every year (2,000 in 2023). Bolungarvík is undoubtedly THE fishing village of the region of Ísafjörður.
The town is also home to Drymla, a boutique selling handmade woolen items, as well as a large selection of wool balls.

Not far from the town center, you can (and we highly recommend it!) visit Ósvör eco-museum, which presents the life of Icelandic fishermen up to the 20th century. With reconstructed fishermen’s huts, a fish dryer, and even the museum’s manager, who you can meet in traditional dress, this museum is well worth a visit.

If you continue northeast of Bolungarvik, you’ll reach the Bolafjall cliff and its superb viewpoint from which, on a clear day, you can even see Greenland!

Flateyri

Flateyri is a small village of 240 inhabitants about 20km from Isafjordur. It has a municipal swimming pool with an outdoor hot-water pool, a grocery store, and a bistro. But the village is best known for housing Iceland’s oldest bookshop. Today, the bookshop continues to perpetuate the amazing tradition of selling second-hand books by weight!
The bookshop invites the curious to visit the house of Jón, the founder of the bookshop. This visit is a little trip back in time. The house has been uninhabited since 1950. It has been preserved in its original state, with its period decor and objects.

Flateyri is located in one of the most beautiful fjords in the west, Önundarfjörður. Holtsfjara Beach is perfect for a stroll. A long pontoon with a magnificent view of the fjord and surrounding mountains.

Unfortunately, there are two avalanche paths above Flateyri. In October 1995, a tragedy befell the village. An avalanche destroyed 29 houses and killed 20 people. Since then, the government has built protective barriers. But this was not enough to fully protect the village. In fact, on the night of January 14-15, 2020, two avalanches occurred in Flateyri. One essentially destroyed the harbour and many boats. The other destroyed a house in which a little girl was rescued after spending 30 minutes under the snow. A happy ending for these avalanches, which were nevertheless held back by the protective barriers.

Súðavík

The village of Súðavík lies around 21 km south of Ísafjörður. With its 170 inhabitants, Súðavík is a fishing village best known for the avalanches that struck its inhabitants on January 16, 1995.

Súðavík is a peaceful village whose only shops are a cafeteria/grocery and a petrol station. It is also home to the Arctic Fox Center, which was originally set up to study the arctic fox, and has now become a museum and a kind of zoo that doesn’t live up to its name. In fact, you can observe an arctic fox in a cage, in rather deplorable living conditions. What’s more, the staff aren’t very friendly. We don’t recommend the experience!

Suðureyri

Less well known than the other Westfjords villages, it is also one of the most recent. Founded in the early 20th century, Suðureyri now has a population of 270, who make their living from fishing and tourism.

Although Suðureyri is a young village, it quickly became a typical Icelandic fishing village. Industrialization has enabled it to develop rapidly, as it is also located close to the fishing grounds, facing west.

The Fisherman company in Suðureyri offers a fresh fish restaurant, fish products, a hotel, and guided tours of the village’s history and traditional fishing and preservation techniques.

Finally, Suðureyri is also famous for its municipal outdoor swimming pool. Summer and winter alike, you can enjoy the warm water at between 38° and 40° under blue skies, downpours, or snowstorms!

Þingeyri

Þingeyri was the first trading post in the Westfjords! Once difficult to reach, the town gained its permanent inhabitants at the end of the 18th century.
Here you’ll find the region’s only professional theater, which performs humorous retellings of Icelandic sagas, and whose troupe travels the country’s roads!

You can opt for a short hike to the summit of Sandafell to admire the view of Dýrafjörður, visit Koltra (a building housing a wool and craft store, art gallery, and tourist information office), or stroll through the faithful reconstructions of the Viking camp.
In summer, an annual Viking festival is held over several days, and you can even take a trip aboard the Vésteinn, a replica of a Viking ship!

Visit Isafjordur and learn about the Myths and legends of the Westfjords

Many tales and legends have flourished in the four corners of the country over the years, and some of these are still believed and told today!
Here’s an extract from the legends told in the Westfjords.

Naustahvilft, the “Troll’s Seat”

It’s hard to visit Isafjordur and start talking about local legends without mentioning the best-known story about the town!

Ísafjörður is framed by mountains that surround the fjord. One of these mountains features a round hole as if it had been hollowed out.

According to Icelandic legends, populated by gigantic trolls, these are transformed into stone by the sun’s rays.

One night, a Troll, having lost track of time on her nocturnal stroll, began to see the first rays of the sun. Terrified, she ran over the mountains and, spotting the cliffs surrounding the fjord of Ísafjörður, took shelter in their shade to protect herself from the sun. She stayed there all day, bathing her aching feet in the water of the bay.
When night fell, she set off again.
During her long rest, the troll’s weight left the hole we see today, and the movements of her feet in the water created the Ísafjörður peninsula as we know it today.

How the Westfjords almost became an island… because of Trolls

Once upon a time, three Trolls decided to dig a canal to separate the Westfjords from the rest of the country, between the bays of Húnaflói and Breiðafjörður. Their aim was that, as the canal took shape, the land they had dug would be transformed into islets, to make as many of them as possible.

Accomplishing their mischief required a great deal of concentration and, to carry out their project, they split up.

Two Trolls posted themselves to the west, and dug quickly, as the bay was shallow, and their redoubled efforts enabled them to create several islands, resembling a multitude of bays in a Skyr pot.
The Troll stationed to the east was experiencing a great deal of frustration, as the water was very deep and, despite her best efforts, she was unable to create a real island worthy of the name.

In their concentration, they were too late to see the sun rising. The two Western Trolls ran to escape the rays, but the sun froze them into stone. You can see them in Drangavík.
The eastern troll was so disappointed at not succeeding in her task that she angrily threw her shovel to the ground, tearing off a large chunk of land that formed the island now known as Grimsey. Shortly afterward, the sun struck her and she too was turned to rock.
Since then, no one has tried to separate the Westfjords from the rest of the country.

The sorcerers who founded Bolungarvik

Legend has it that two powerful sorcerers, brother and sister, were the first to settle in Bolungarvik in the 10th century.

One day, they quarreled violently and cast a spell on each other.
The sister, Þuríður, bewitched her brother into turning to stone, destined to be a place where birds defecated.
The brother, Þjóðólfur, in response, turned his sister into a rock in the place where the wind is strongest.

These two rocks thus framed the village for several centuries, until the day a storm broke out, and the Þjóðólfur stone collapsed. That same evening, the Þuríður stone fell into the ocean, putting an end to their curses.
We’ll tell you more about elves and the hidden people, witchcraft, and Icelandic fantasy bestiary in the “tales and legends” section of the blog.
If, like us, you’re passionate about stories that make you dream or shiver, we’ll see you there!

What to do in Ísafjörður: Visits and excursions

Many local companies offer guided tours in Isafjordur. Some also offer private services. To help you find what you’re looking for, it’s best to visit the tourist office, which will be able to direct you. But we can already recommend the following activities:

• Visit Dynjandi waterfall: Visiting the most famous waterfall in the Westfjords is the area’s number-one tourist attraction. All the companies offer excursions, usually lasting 3 hours, to see the waterfall and take a short hike (approx. 20 minutes). It’s also possible to take one of the mini-buses parked at the port, which offers tours of Dynjandi.
• Whale watching in Jökulfirðir: The fjord of Jökulfirðir is the best place to see humpback whales. They stay in the fjord all summer and are fairly easy to find.
• A day hike around Ísafjörður: Many walks are starting from Ísafjörður. The most popular is to the Bunárfoss waterfall. This walk takes you through the forest of Ísafjörður to a field of blooming Alaskan lupines at the foot of the waterfall. Free maps are available from the town’s tourist office.
• Kayaking in Isafjordur: the Westfjords are famous for kayaking. The main company offering kayaking in the fjords is Borea Adventures. You can even choose a kayaking trip with the seals! Alternatively, Odin Adventures is an excellent guide who will tell you all about the legends of the Westfjords during your adventure here.
• Guided tour of Ísafjörður: If you prefer cultural tours, then West Tours offers guided tours of Ísafjörður to discover the town, its history, the life of Icelanders past and present, and more.
  Helga Ingeborg Hausner also offers short walking tours to introduce you to local folklore and legends.
• A day’s hike in Hornstrandir: several companies such as Wild Westfjords and Borea Adventures offer day hikes in the Hornstrandir nature reserve. Departures are usually from the port of Ísafjörður to Hesteyri. These day hikes are the best for arctic fox watching around Isafjordur.

Une journée de détente à Ísafjörður

Perhaps you’d even like to take advantage of the city’s relaxed atmosphere to enjoy a little rest. And there’s no shortage of things to do!

You can enjoy a hot chocolate in one of the town’s cafés, eat a traditional pastry (happy marriage cake, with oats and rhubarb, for example), admire the view from the bay, or bask in the warmth of the town swimming pool…

You can also visit one of the town’s museums, notably the Westfjords Heritage Museum, near the tourist office. By introducing you to the history of the town, closely linked to that of fishing, and the people who built it, the museum succeeds in giving you a real insight into the living conditions and challenges that once made life in the Westfjords possible. Don’t miss the museum’s collection of antique accordions on the top floor!

Numerous events are organized throughout the year, and the local associations are very active!
If you’d like to meet new people and immerse yourself in the local culture, whether it’s a festival, a knitting initiation, a karaoke night or a sporting activity, don’t hesitate to take a look at Facebook and the many groups, or Visit Westfjords Instagram page. Yes, when the roads are often blocked outside winter, digital tools are developing to create links between villages.

Planning to visit Isafjordur? Let us know!

If you’re planning to visit Isafjordur, or if you’re already here, drop us a line – we’re here from May to October. We’re guides in the area and offer services, but we’re also happy just to meet people and have a drink 🙂